Manipulating stitches on my Passap is my downfall. This magnificent Swiss watch of knitting machines does not suffer amateurs so the slightest misstep results in problems; holes, dropped stitches, misshaped pieces, etc. Fortunately, there is this thing called a "sewing machine," which, in the right hands, can step in and patch things up.
Here is a roundup of sewing machine techniques on Youtube and in print to supplement or supplant some of your knitting machine's functions.
Sewing on machine knits--the basics
Another take on simple seaming
Seaming with a serger
A quick v-neck demo: mark, sew, cut, and return to the machine to knit the band.
A detailed look at applying a neck band to a serged edge
Another take: mark, cut, serge, then apply the separately knit band by hand to the opening.
Knit, Cut and Sew can be done to put together an entire garment. Here, in two parts, on an LK150, is a shrug made from three rectangles:
Publications
In print
Passap Cut And Sew Collars And Bands for Passap by Michael Becker
Description:
The Passap Cut And Sew Collars And Bands book is a complete how-to-do-it guide to all the popular neckline and band applications using self-folding ribbing, something only a Passap can do. Use this method to cover cut and sew seams. It is also a great way to apply bands to shaped necklines. The Passap Cut And Sew Collars And Bands will explain folded bands, sandwich bands, as well as non-folded bands that have a sandwich to cover cut and sew. You can have the look of a regular ribbed neckline with the capability of covering a cut and sew seam. Heavily illustrated with detailed instructions. The Passap Cut And Sew Collars And Bands is a great beginners books that seasoned knitters will want to have in their library as well. A great "reminder" for those grey moments!
Easy Cut & Set Necklines by Ricki Mundstock
Description:
Take the fear out of cut & sew necklines. Complete easy instructions that even a beginning knitter can understand. Step-by-step instructions for preparing the neck opening, knitting the neckband and attaching to he garment. Instructions include simple ribbed neckbands and decorative neckbands. For all standard gauge machines.
Everything You Wanted to Know about pockets, buttonholes, necklines and yarn by Fred and Frances Stafford
Description:
I took several of Fred’s booklets and put them all together in one book. Lots of wonderful information. Includes: buttonholes, eyelets, multiple stitch buttonholes, vertical buttonholes, single buttonholes, double buttonhole in band, sideways buttonhole, bound buttonhole, buttonholes in mock ribbing, no buttonhole at all. Pockets: patch pockets, two variations of patch pockets, slashed horizontal, slashed vertical, flap pockets, muff pockets, placement of pockets. Necklines: shaping the neck & picking up stitches for a round neck, round neckband folded under, chain stitch band, V neck bands, overlap bands, ribbing, mitered band ribbing, square neck bands, other rib bands, cut and sew, cord trim, quick neck finish, eyelet trim, crochet trim, mock rib band. Everything you wanted to know about yarns: general information on yarn, using space dyed yarns, conversion table, some yarn problems you may encounter.
Commercial Neckband by Alles Hutchinson
Description:
This includes directions on how to make cut and sew neckbands such as the Rotorua Neckband (from New Zealand). There is a plain version, an Australian version. Basic cut and sew. Simplier method. For Japanese machines with ribber. Commercial neckband for G carriage. Hand sewn method and more.
Out of print
The Haute Couture of the cut & sew technique using knit fabric by Manon Salois
Copyright 1995 ISBN 0-921165-39-0 (also on video tape)
Description:
Originally released as a video. 6 chapters with 12 Exercises. Introduction: The Dut & Sew technique has come to my rescue many times during my custom design career. It enables me to correct my knit work for a better fit withut having to re-knit the whole knit garment. It also gives me the extra edge when designing complicated, intricate shapes or multi-colored fabrics such as jacquard. My students truly enjoy the Cut & Sew technique because it actually stretches their ability to design new shapes using commercial patterns, such as Bogue, McCalls or Butterick. How to Use this book: This book is based on my beginner program called "Knit Design #1." Each chapter provides you with an overview and step-by-step instructions for creating a Cut & Sew garment. Exercises of different techniques can be found at the back of this book, designed to give you an opportunity to practice prior to applying them on your own garments.
Cut and Sew Neckline No. 2 - Quick Cut and Sew No Casing Machine Knitting Pattern Book
By Edith Lambert
Description:
14 page machine knitting pattern book contains patterns for: Double Rib / No Casing, Quick Bulky, Rolled Edge Bulky or Standard, Johnnie Collar, Cowl Collar and Decorative Racked Collars plus Sleeve Rib Bind Off / Disappearing Stitch.
So Simple to Knit: Cut and Sew to Your Shape By Japan Hand Knitting Machine Manufacturers Assn
Description:
Finishing knit pieces with a sewing machine with techniques of zigzag stitching, use of transparent nylon thread and use of heat sensitive tape.
Revised Knit, Cut and Sew: Bk. 1
Revised Knit, Cut and Sew: Bk. 2
By Pam Turbett
Description:
Pam Turbett had been teaching dressmaking in Adult Education classes for many years when she discovered that machine-knitters could make beautiful, individual fabrics at home. After some experimentation, she developed methods of handling the knitted fabrics so that they could successfully be made up into smart, well-finished and fashionable clothing, with a crisply – cut, tailored look quite different from normal “knitwear”. She now teaches her But and Sew techniques at machine-knitting clubs, workshops and conventions, all over the British Isles and also in the United States. Having been the regular Cut and Sew contributor to “Machine Knitting Monthly” for its first four years, Pam has written articles in several other magazines. Her first two books were both published by Batsford – CUT AND DEW: WORKING WITH MACHINE-KNITTED FABRICS in 1985 and THE TECHNIQUES OF CUT AND SEW in 1988. A third book, KNIT, CUT AND SEW: THE BASICS was published in 1990.
